Musk in Perfumes - Myths and Reality.

Musk is an ingredient widely used in perfumery, and is mentioned in the olfactory pyramid of many fragrances, to which it contributes its inimitable soft, sensual note. According to perfumers, it also supports the base notes, ‘carrying’ the fragrance and its delicate architecture. 

Yet little is known about this raw material, not least because of the confusion that can exist over its different names. In this article, we'll explore what musk really is, how it's obtained and why it's so popular in perfumery.

In the beginning, there was natural musk

Natural musk is a powerfully fragrant substance produced by the musk gland of the male musk deer, a small mammal native to the mountain forests of north-east Asia. That's the one you see in the image illustrating this article. This thick, oily substance enables the animal to mark its territory and attract females during the rutting season. Since ancient times, this substance has been collected by hunters for use in perfumery, often brutally.

As a result of over-hunting and the decline in the number of muskheads, natural musk gradually became a rare and expensive commodity. The perfume industry became aware of the need to find animal-friendly alternatives, and the musk deer became a protected species. Today, perfumers exclusively use synthetic alternatives to natural musk in their compositions.

Musk, an ingredient for the happy few? 

The musk note has a surprising peculiarity in that a significant proportion of the population is unable to perceive it. This peculiarity can be attributed to a variety of factors, such as genetic differences or differences in the way the brain processes odours.

In 2019, researchers from the universities of Dresden, Poznan and Wroclaw also published a study showing that men perceive musk less well than women.

Other studies have been carried out to understand the reasons for this difference in perception between the sexes. Some have suggested that sex hormones could play a role in this difference, while others have explored the possibility that genetic differences could be responsible for this difference in perception, but the reason behind this phenomenon is still not fully understood.

A beautiful love story, a big family

Musk is highly prized in perfumery, particularly for its reassuring, sensual and comfortable qualities. Combined with other raw materials and other types of musk, it can be used to create a wide range of fragrances, from light florals to the richest, most complex orientals.

The first synthetic molecules date back to the end of the 19th century, with the accidental discovery of nitro musks. This was the origin of the family of synthetic musks, which continues to grow as the search for new molecules continues today.

It's important to note that these molecules have gradually moved away from the smell of natural musk. On the other hand, they allow us to create combinations that are satisfyingly close to the original scent, but also to create olfactory variants that explore the different facets of this truly fascinating raw material.

From animal musk to vegetal musk

Animal musk, formerly known as Tonkin musk, is the ‘real’ musk, the one that gave birth to this large family. It has a strong odour and is not necessarily pleasant to smell in its raw state, but it is no longer used in modern perfumery. The old perfumes that included musk in their composition have all been reformulated to reproduce their original fragrance as far as possible without having to use animal musk.

White musks, often nicknamed ‘clean musks’, are the ones most commonly found in perfumery. Their scent has little in common with that of natural musk. It is soft and delicate, with wafting notes, sometimes floral or fruity, depending on the family. Ambrettolide or muscenone, for example, can reveal powdery facets.

Some perfumers now use plant musks. These natural musks are extracted from plants such as angelica, cedar and patchouli. Although they are not as commonly used as synthetic musks, they are an increasingly interesting alternative for fans of natural, vegan or cruelty-free fragrances who are looking for fragrances that respect their ethical and environmental convictions.

Discover all the facets of musk