How to wear perfume properly: the must-know guide

Perfume is an essential part of our olfactory identity. It reveals our personality, our mood, our desires. It can make us more attractive, more confident, sometimes even happier. But how can we make the most of its benefits? As SCENTISSIME's fragrance curator, this is a question I'm regularly asked. So here's my advice on how to choose the right fragrance, apply it and make it last, plus a few professional tips at the end of this article.

The basics: Why does a fragrance diffuse in the air?

A perfume is made up of three main elements: the fragrance concentrate, the carrier and the fixative.

The fragrance concentrate is the part that gives the perfume its smell. It is made up of natural or synthetic raw materials that can be flowers, fruits, woods, spices, citrus fruits, etc.

The carrier is the part that dissolves and transports the fragrance concentrate. This is generally alcohol, which evaporates quickly and leaves the fragrance molecules on the skin, but there are also water-based perfumes.

The fixative is the part that makes the fragrance last longer. It often consists of resinous or animal substances that slow down the evaporation of the fragrance concentrate.

Fragrance is diffused by body heat. The higher our body temperature, the more the fragrance molecules evaporate and spread through the air. That's why it's advisable to apply fragrance to areas where the blood circulates a lot and where the veins are close to the surface of the skin. These areas are called pulse points, and we'll see where they are located.

Where are the different pulse points on the body?

The pulse points are the ideal places on the body for perfuming, as they help to diffuse the fragrance. Here are the main ones:

The wrists: this is the most obvious pulse point, as the gesture is natural and we can dose and target the fragrance with precision. It allows the fragrance to be diffused with every movement of the hand and to be smelled at will. However, if you're wearing a watch or bracelet, you should avoid using perfume on your wrists, as the fragrance could damage them.

The neck: this is the most classic pulse point, as it is close to the face and nose. It allows the fragrance to be diffused with each movement of the head, creating an impression of closeness. However, if you are wearing a necklace or scarf made from a delicate fabric, you should avoid spraying perfume on your neck. Caution: spraying perfume on jewellery can damage it, and certain fabrics such as silk sometimes do not tolerate contact with perfume.

The crook of the elbow: this is the most discreet pulse point, as it is hidden by the sleeves. It allows the fragrance to be diffused with each movement of the arm, revealing it subtly. On the other hand, there's no point in perfuming the elbows if you're wearing tight or synthetic clothing, which will muffle the diffusion of the fragrance, and so achieve the opposite result to the one you're looking for. The fragrance won't have enough air to diffuse.: this is the most discreet pulse point, as it is hidden by the sleeves. It allows the fragrance to be diffused with each movement of the arm, revealing it subtly. On the other hand, there's no point in perfuming the elbows if you're wearing tight or synthetic clothing, which will muffle the diffusion of the fragrance, and so achieve the opposite result to the one you're looking for. The fragrance won't have enough air to diffuse.

The crook of the knees: this is perhaps the most sensual, even naughty, pulse point. It allows the fragrance to be diffused with each step, and to rise to the top of the body. However, it's less interesting to scent the hollows of the knees if you're wearing long trousers or skirts, which can prevent the fragrance from coming through.

The ankles: this is the most original pulse point, the one you might not have thought of. It allows the fragrance to be diffused each time you walk and to circulate in the air around you. However, it's not a good idea to put perfume on your ankles if you're wearing closed shoes or socks, which will absorb the fragrance or even make it disappear. This technique is therefore preferable in summer.

Why does one fragrance " stay " better than another?

A fragrance is said to last when you can smell it on your skin for a long time. It's important to remember that when our skin is moisturised, it retains the fragrance better. That's why it's best to apply fragrance to clean, dry skin after a shower. You can also use a fragrance cream or milk from the same range as your perfume, to reinforce its trail and staying power. A perfume's staying power also depends on its concentration of concentrated fragrance. The higher the concentration, the longer the fragrance is likely to last. We'll look at what these concentrations are, what they're called, and which ones last best on the skin:

The different fragrance concentrations

The higher the concentration, the more intense and long-lasting the fragrance. Here are the main categories of fragrance concentrations, from the lightest to the most intense:

Eau de cologne: this is the lightest concentration, containing around 5% aromatic essence. It is sprayed generously all over the body, and repeated several times a day. It's ideal for the warmer seasons, or for people who like discreet fragrances, or simply for the "refreshing" sensation it gives when you wear perfume.

Eau de toilette: this is the most common concentration, with around 10% aromatic essence. It is sprayed on the pulse points and lasts about 4 hours. It is suitable for all times of the day, and for all fragrance styles.

Eau de parfum: a higher concentration than eau de toilette, with around 15% concentrate. It is sprayed onto pulse points and lasts for around 6 hours. It is suitable for special occasions, for people who like intense fragrances or who want their fragrance to last all day without the need for repeated spraying. This is the most common concentration for niche fragrances.

Perfume extract (or simply extract): this is the most precious concentration, and also the most generous, with around 20% essence. It is applied sparingly and lasts for over 8 hours. It is recommended for special moments, or for people who simply don't want to go unnoticed.

The Fragrance Trail

The trail of a fragrance is the olfactory trace it leaves behind. It depends on several factors, such as the concentration of the fragrance, the structure and composition of the fragrance, the method of application, and body chemistry.

The olfactory structure that defines a fragrance is generally divided into three parts: top notes, middle notes and base notes. The top notes are the most volatile, giving the first impression of the fragrance but dissipating quickly. The middle notes are the most characteristic, revealing the fragrance's personality and lasting for a few hours. The base notes are the most persistent, fixing the fragrance and lasting for several days.

It is generally the middle notes and base notes that determine the trail. Depending on the fragrance, the trail can be discreet or intense and persistent.

The method of application is the way you perfume yourself. There are several techniques, and we'll look at them in detail in the following paragraphs. As for the pulse points, thanks to us they no longer hold any secrets for you.

Body chemistry is the interaction between fragrance and skin. Each person's skin is unique, with a different pH, temperature and hydration. These factors influence the way fragrance develops and diffuses on the skin. As a result, fragrance can vary from person to person, creating a unique olfactory signature for you.

Should you wear perfume on your clothes or on your skin?

Whether you wear perfume on your clothes or on your skin is a matter of personal preference. There are no hard and fast rules, but here are a few advantages and disadvantages of each method:

Perfume applied to clothing generally lasts longer, as textile fibres retain the fragrance molecules better than the skin. It also helps to avoid allergic reactions or skin irritation. On the other hand, some of the fragrance components of a perfume sprayed on clothing will diffuse little or not at all into the air. Perfume can also stain or damage certain fabrics, such as silk or leather. It is also advisable to avoid using dark-coloured perfumes when wearing light-coloured fabrics.

Perfuming on the skin is the method preferred by perfumers. It allows the fragrance's personality to be fully revealed, as it blends with the skin's warmth and pH. This creates harmony between the fragrance and the body, and allows you to vary sensations according to the zones scented. It's also a good way to make your perfume your own, as the combination of a fragrance and your skin can give it a personal touch. On the other hand, wearing perfume on the skin can reduce its staying power, as the skin absorbs or evaporates the fragrance molecules, especially in the case of low-concentration fragrances such as eaux fraîches and eaux de cologne.

How Many Sprays

How many sprays of perfume do you need to get the right scent? This depends on the concentration of the fragrance, the season, the occasion and your personal taste. But here are a few tips to help you find the right dosage for you:

The type of fragrance: the more concentrated the fragrance components, the less you need to use. For example, one or two sprays of perfume extract are enough, while three or four sprays of eau de parfum, five or six sprays of eau de toilette and seven or eight sprays of eau de Cologne are needed.

The season: the warmer it is, the less perfume you need. In fact, heat increases the diffusion of perfume and can even make it heady or disgusting. In summer, therefore, it's best to reduce the amount of perfume you use, in favor of lighter, fresher notes. Conversely, increase the amount of fragrance in winter, opting for warm, enveloping notes.

The occasion to wear: perfume is an asset of seduction, confidence or distinction. That's why it's a good idea to wear a generous amount of perfume for a romantic rendezvous or a social gathering - without annoying the people around you. On the other hand, perfume in moderation for a job interview, a gourmet meal, a business meeting or when traveling by plane.

Personal taste: the more you like perfume, the more you can wear, and why deprive yourself? After all, perfume is a matter of pleasure, comfort or mood. It all depends on the impression you want to leave around you, and the trail you want to follow once you've left a place.

Be careful, however, to respect the culture of the country you're in. In Japan, for example, it's frowned upon to wear a perfume that's too strong, as it's perceived as a lack of respect for the people you meet.

Stop rubbing your perfume on your wrists

Few people know it, but perfumers will tell you: don't rub your perfume on your skin after putting it on.

In fact, rubbing your perfume into your skin can alter its delicate architecture, making it fade or even disappear more quickly. You lose the nuances and complexity of your perfume and shorten its life.

Simply let your fragrance dry naturally on your skin, without touching or tapping it. This way, you'll get the full benefit of its composition.

The chic "fragrance veil" technique

The air-spray technique is an elegant and refined method of perfuming. It consists of spraying perfume into the air in front of you, and walking through the fragrant cloud. In this way, the fragrance is deposited evenly all over the body, without being too concentrated in one area. This is said to have been the preferred method of Madame Estée Lauder, a pioneer of modern cosmetics and perfumery.

This technique can also be used to perfume the hair, which is an excellent medium for fragrance. It's important, however, not to spray too much perfume, or too close to the face, to avoid irritation or allergies if you're wearing it for the first time.

How to perfume yourself (even) better: find your olfactory signature

Perfuming is a technique that requires know-how, common sense and taste. By following these tips, you'll be able to enjoy your fragrance to the full. If now you'd like to go one step further, it's time to find your olfactory signature, i.e. the fragrance that's uniquely yours and that only you will wear.

For this, the best approach is to choose a niche perfume, i.e. a rare, high-quality brand with fragrances that have a unique olfactory personality, just like you. On SCENTISSIME, I offer you a sharp selection of the world's best niche perfumes, and we'll help you find the one that's right for you with our online advice. Want some ideas? I invite you to discover our olfactory favorites below, chosen with complete subjectivity.